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S025958 OFFICER'S GREATCOAT. (SS-Dienstmantel)
BACKGROUND: Originally members of the fledgling Allgemeine-SS, (General-SS), had no official uniform until April 1925 when they adopted, what was to become known as the, "Tradition Uniform" and personnel were outfitted with the same brown shirt uniform and kepi as the SA., Sturm Abteilung, (Storm/Assault Detachment), In November 1925 personnel of the newly formed SS adopted a black kepi, necktie, breeches and border trim on their armbands to distinguish themselves from their SA counterparts. On July 7TH 1932 the black service uniform, for Allgemeine-SS, (General SS), SS-VT, SS-Verfügungstruppe, (SS-Special Purpose Troops), SS-TV, SS-Totenkopfverbände, (SS-Death’s Head Units), and SS-SD, SS-Sicherheitsdienst und Sicherheitspolizei, (SS-Security Service and Security Police), personnel was first introduced to replace the brown shirt, "Tradition", uniform. Originally SS personnel wore police overcoats with the insignia removed until the black SS-greatcoat was introduced in 1934. In early 1939 a new field-grey greatcoat, with field-grey collar, was introduced for SS personnel. Regulations of December 1939 altered the greatcoat’s field-grey collar to a blue/green collar. Originally collar tabs and collar piping were utilized on the SS greatcoats but the collar piping for enlisted ranks was discontinued in August 1940. The use of collar tabs on the SS greatcoats was altered no fewer then four times through-out the war. The SS greatcoat was virtually identical to the army’s version but with a different pattern half-waist belt. The SS greatcoat also followed the same modifications as the army version which included, the early pattern with button holes on both the left and right front closure panels which allowed the coat to be button up either left or right handedly but regulations of December 1ST 1939 abolished all but one of the button holes on the right side of the closure panel. Early production greatcoats also came with small metal hooks positioned at both sides of the bottom front closure panels, and additional small metal hooks positioned at both sides of the reverse tail skirt vent with corresponding thread loops situated at the side seams just below the waistline. The metal hooks and thread loops allowed the wearer to hook the tail skirt up out of the way when mounted or on the march. Regulations of 1940 abolished these metal hooks and thread loops and also reverted the collar back to a field-grey fabric. Of Note: Both of the above regulations were not strictly adhered to. SS Officers and certain senior NCO ranks were responsible for purchasing their own uniforms and as a result the SS established the SS-Kleiderkasse, (Clothing Account), system in Munich in 1935. The Officers and certain senior NCO’s were allotted a one time clothing allowance from the government with the amount varying depending on the individuals rank. The Officers and certain senior NCO’s could also choose to purchase privately tailored garments of higher quality although the price may have been restrictive. Of Note: With the fall of Germany’s Italian allies as a result of Mussolini’s deposition and imprisoned on July 25TH 1943 and the subsequent Italian unconditional surrender to the allied forces on September 8TH 1943 the Germans appropriated large stockpiles of Italian clothing and equipment. As a result a large percentage of later Waffen-SS uniforms and headgear items, primarily Officer’s versions, were manufactured in the field-grey Italian material. Also Of Note: In a daring raid on September 13TH 1943 Mussolini was rescued by the Germans and under Hitler’s forceful encouragement began formation of the puppet fascist RSI, Repubblica Sociale Italiana, (Italian Social Republic), on September 17TH 1943, in a failed attempt to restore fascism to Italy. The RSI along with the GNR, La Guardia Nazionale Repubblicana, (Republican National Guard), which was formed on November 20TH 1943, continued to fight in Italy under German command. This example is the army cut, manufactured in Italian material.
PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION: Field-grey, Italian, wool/rayon blend, double breasted style, full length, greatcoat with a subtle whipcord weave and a lay down, blue/green badge cloth collar. The greatcoat features dual, vertical, parallel, rows of six, front closure buttons with corresponding button holes on the left front panel and a single button hole on the right front panel positioned at the waistline with a single corresponding button to the interior left panel. The greatcoat also has a single, large metal hook and eye positioned at the forward neckline. The greatcoat has two, diagonally angled, slash, front, hip pockets with slightly angular flaps situated at the waistline. The straight cut sleeves have deep, fold back, French cuffs which are tacked in the upright position at both the inner and outer sleeve seams. The reverse of the greatcoat has the army style, horizontal, ornamental, half waist belt with dual retaining buttons positioned at the waistline and a central, vertical tail skirt vent with a four button closure. Two of the tail skirt closure buttons are absent. The tail skirt vent runs from the half waist belt down to the bottom edge of the coat. The greatcoat has no accommodations for shoulder boards/straps and no collar tabs or any evidence that any were ever applied. The greatcoat has a lay down, blue/green badge cloth collar with the typical zig-zag reinforcement stitching to the reverse. The interior of the greatcoat is fully lined, including the sleeves, with the shiny, Italian grey rayon with an HBT, (Herring Bone Twill), weave. The lining has a horizontal slash pocket to the left breast panel and a small, field-grey wool reinforced, diagonally angled, slash to the reverse of the exterior left hip pocket for the dagger/sword hangers. The interior of the tunic also has a vertical, grey, rayon strap with a nickel/silver plated, tooled steel, friction clip, machine stitched to the left armpit seam for suspending the dagger/sword hangers. The greatcoat has no visible size or manufacture’s markings. The greatcoat is in overall good condition with light age and usage toning, light to moderate chafe wear to the cuff and collar, and a couple of small rips and tears. The buttons are a combination of the molded, grey and tan bakelite and the carved wood types and most appear to have their original stitching. The greatcoat is roughly size 42" chest.
GRADE ***3/4 PRICE $1,190.00
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