N035057 POLITICAL LEADER’S BROWN SHIRT & BREECHES. (Diensthemd und Stiefelhose)

PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION: A light brown, cotton twill construction, long-sleeved, waist-length service shirt featuring a lay-down collar and a five button front closure. A pleated patch pocket with a scalloped, button-down flap is to each breast, and the fold-back French cuffs each have dual button closures for their removable buttons. A shoulder strap is sewn into the seam line of the right shoulder, its free end held fast by a 5/8" diameter, convex, pebbled metal button. This button appears to have originally had a gold wash, visible along the edge of its reverse, but has otherwise reverted to its base silver color. "P. Cramer & Co." is stamped to the reverse of the button. An 11/16" diameter, black bakelite dish button is sewn to the base of the front closure. The remaining buttons to the front closure, the pockets, and the cuffs, are all 13/16" in diameter, and have, embossed against their convex, pebbled metal obverses, a spread-winged eagle with a static swastika in its talons. Each of these buttons are attached by a ring fed through the central eyes to their concave reverses. All but two of them have stamped around their eyes, "Assmann" and "& Söhne" to either side of the stylized "A" used by that company, as well as, "Ges." and "Gesch.," for "Gesetzlich Geschützt" (By-law Protected), separated by an RZM, "Reichszeugmeisterei" (National-material-control-office), logo. Five of these eight buttons have "17" stamped alongside the RZM logo. The two remaining buttons, one to each cuff, have an RZM logo and "U E," for "Uniformeffekten Erlaubnißschein" (Uniform Accessories), followed by the manufacturer’s code numbers, "76/6," stamped to their reverses. Multiple pleats are above each of these cuffs, to one side of 6 7/8" tall slashes. Two short, vertical slashes are to either side of the front of the waistband, and another two are along the reverse waistband, which most likely facilitated buttoning the shirt into the suspender buttons to the inside of the trousers worn with it. Approximately 2 1/2" tall vents are to the bases of each side seam. Sewn to each side of the collar, by their corners, are light brown wool parallelograms, each roughly 2 1/2" x 1 1/2", each having silver-aluminum "Litzen" machine woven to them. Separating each bar is a raised stripe, in the same color as the backing, and smaller stripes, also in the same color, are to each of the bars themselves. The silver-aluminum has dulled with age. The dual bars on these first pattern (1933-34), un-piped collar tabs represented the rank of a "Kreisleiter" (District-leader), although usually the smaller stripes to the bars are red in color. The single shoulder strap to the right shoulder is comprised of a doubled cord of silver-aluminum, which doubles back to form a button loop to its free end, and which is sewn to a 9/16" x 4 1/16", light brown backing. This style shoulder strap usually had one or two "knots" along its length, and were usually sewn to both shoulders of the shirt, but to only the right shoulder of the tunic. The cord has significantly tarnished with age, but its backing is in excellent condition. Shoulder straps were eliminated in late 1933. To the upper left sleeve is sewn a black rayon diamond, against which is machine embroidered, in silver-grey thread, a spread-winged eagle with a wreathed, mobile swastika in its talons. The swastika is black and a hint of red may be seen to the eagle’s beak. These were worn by those holding the position of "Amtswalter" (an Administrator, Official or Local-party-boss). A noticeable tear is along the upper right edge of the diamond, and there is light fraying to all of its edges. The silver-grey embroidery, however, is still very bright. The shirt has very light age and usage soiling throughout, one small but noticeable stain beneath its right breast pocket, and one equally small hole to the base of its rear right panel, but is otherwise in excellent condition. Approximately a size 40. Completing the uniform is a pair of tan-colored corduroy breeches, which flare out at the thighs and taper towards the ankles. They feature a three button French fly, with two additional buttons at the waist, diagonal slash hip pockets with scalloped, button-down flaps, a horizontal slash watch pocket to the front right, and a horizontal slash pocket with a scalloped, button-down flap to the rear right. The 1/2" diameter buttons to the fly, and the 9/16" diameter, and thicker, buttons to the hip pocket flaps are all made of tan colored bakelite. Short, horizontal straps with nickel-silver plated metal gripper buckles are to each hip. Nine belt loops are along the exterior waistband, the two the center of the reverse being wider and twice as tall as the others, with a button sewn to each of their free ends, and which fold over and pass through horizontal loops sewn to the interior waistband. The outside seams of each cuff have 10 1/4" openings, each with six buttons to one side, and corresponding buttonholes to the other. These 1/2" diameter, tan colored buttons, as well as the identical one to the rear pocket flap, appear to be made of bakelite. The interior fly of each cuff is lined in brown cotton, which extends to form a reinforcing band along the base of the cuffs. Brown cotton also lines the main fly, and forms the pocket bags. The interior crotch and waistband are lined in white cotton. A pair of buttons is sewn along the interior waistband above each hip pocket, which, along with those to the ends of the two belt loops rising from the rear, act as suspender strap buttons. All of these buttons, as well as the two to the waistband above the fly, are the "dish" variety, and are all of tan colored bakelite. A completely faded tag is sewn to the immediate right of the loops securing those rising from the rear, and an additional loop, made of the same material as the waistband lining, is sewn beneath them. Light age soiling is evident throughout, and most of the buttons appear to have re-stitched, but there is no significant wear. Approximately a size 30 waist.

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