N031257 HJ TWILL BLOUSE. (Köperbluse)

PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION: A light brown, cotton twill construction, long-sleeved, waist-length jacket with a lay-down collar and a five button front closure, introduced in August of 1935. A pleated patch pocket with a scalloped, button-down flap is to each breast, and the fold-back French cuffs each have dual button closures for their removable buttons. The relatively flat top and bottom buttons to the front closure are of tan-colored bakelite. The three, similarly colored center buttons to the front closure, and those to the breast pockets, each have four decorative divisions to their convex surfaces, simulating interwoven strips of leather, with "H.J." embossed within one, and "D.J." within another. All are 5/8" in diameter. It would appear that the button to the left pocket may have been replaced, as, although it is the correct type, an RZM, "Reichszeugmeisterei" (National-material-control-office), logo and an "A 10/13" manufacturer’s code is embossed to its reverse, whereas the button to the right pocket and the identical three to the front closure all have an RZM logo followed by "3" to their reverses. The stitching attaching the left pocket button is a different color than that of the others as well. The two, 11/16" diameter, convex, nickel-silver plated metal buttons to each cuff are connected to one another by threads binding the central eyes to their concave reverses. Each of these buttons have "A. & S.," for the manufacturer, "Assmann & Sohne," stamped alongside the eyes to their reverses. All of their plating has been retained, with light surface scratching. Multiple pleats are above each of these cuffs, to either side of 5" slashes. Two darts are to either side of the front of the waistband, and another two are along the reverse waistband. To the reverse center of the waistband is a single, vertical belt loop. Five pebbled alloy belt support hooks, all machine stitched into small, inverted retaining pockets, are sewn along the waistband, all of which appear to have originally had gold washes to them, which are almost completely retained to some, and almost completely absent from others. The coloring of these hooks depended on the rank of wearer. Curiously, where a sixth belt hook would usually be sewn, no pocket has been provided for one. To the upper left sleeve is sewn, at its points, an identifying district sleeve triangle, first introduced in January of 1933. The base of this black rayon triangle measures 3 1/2" across, and it has a central height of 1 7/8". In from its edges is machine woven a thin, golden-yellow border, within which is machine woven, in golden-yellow Gothic script, "West" over "Westmark." The district "West Westmark" was along the French border. The triangle is in excellent condition, with minimal age soiling and little apparent wear. Beneath it is sewn, along its upper and lower edges, an official pattern Hitler Youth armband, in cotton, as introduced in 1933. Upon its 12" x 4" red base is sewn a central, 13/16" wide, white horizontal stripe, against which is sewn a 2 3/8" square white diamond, with a machine woven, black rayon mobile swastika to it. The armband’s vertical seam is to its reverse. Light soiling and wrinkling is evident, and there is one small pick to its red field. Pinned to the pleat of the left breast pocket is an approximately 7/8" x 11/16" youth festival sports award, in the pattern used from 1940 to 1943, being a thick, proto-plastic badge in the form of the Hitler Youth diamond and swastika, with a spray of oak leaves rising to either side of it from a scroll with "1941" upon it. A vertical pin-back device is crimped to a circular plate fixed to its reverse. Unmarked. Although its material is silver-grey, it may have originally had a silver wash, as its obverse recesses seem more silver colored than the remainder. It is otherwise in excellent condition. These were awarded to Hitler Youth who had achieved an above average score in three sports contests, and could be worn throughout the year. Two small horizontal loops are sewn beneath the left breast pocket, which would facilitate the vertical prong to the reverse of another award. The interior waistband and upper back are lined in white cotton. Sewn to the interior collar is a horizontal black tag, upon which is machine woven, in golden yellow, "Indanthrenfarbig" (Indanthren (a division of I.G.Farbenindustrie AG which made colorfast dyes) - colored). Light age soiling and wrinkling, a couple of white spots to the left sleeve, and dark spots beneath the right breast pocket, may be seen. The shirt is otherwise in excellent condition. Approximately a size 38.

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