BACKGROUND: German Naval uniforms and headgear were based on traditional designs that date back to the creation of the Prussian Navy in 1848, and although the uniforms and headgear did evolve during the interim years, many items used during the Third Reich would still have been quite recognizable to the Imperial sailor. The blue and white jumper shirts were a staple uniform item for all EM/NCO personnel and followed the basic design of the Imperial German Navy and Reichsmarine blue and white jumper shirts. The white jumper shirts were intended for wear in tropical climates or with the summer walking out dress while the navy blue shirts were utilized for everyday wear. On entering Kriegsmarine service all personnel were assigned and trained for a specific career. These careers consisted of a wide variety of specialty trades and functions with some of the careers restricted to certain rank groups. On successful completion of the appropriate training, personnel were issued distinctive career insignia to be worn on the upper left sleeve of the uniforms. For EM/NCO’s the career insignia could be worn combined with the rank insignia or as separate insignia. Enlisted ranks of Matrose up to and including Hauptgefreiter career insignia were generally embroidered on small, round, bases while NCO ranks of Maat up to and including Oberdeckoffizier career insignia were on larger, vertically oval bases and could come in embroidered or stamped alloy versions. Regulations dictated that the base color of the insignia was to match the color of the uniform it was worn on. Of Note: Officers and certain senior NCO ranks were responsible for purchasing their own uniforms and headgear and as a result were allotted a clothing allowance through the OKK, Offizier Kleiderkasse der Kriegsmarine, (Officer’s Clothing Account of the Navy). Although enlisted personnel were issued their uniforms and headgear from government supplies they were also permitted to purchase privately tailored items although the price may have been restrictive. Generally speaking officers bought nice quality, private purchase, uniform items but they could also choose to buy their uniforms directly from the military clothing depots.

PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION: Standard issue, mid-weight, brushed, white cotton construction, pullover style, jumper shirt features a central, vertical, V-neck slash opening with dual, white, cotton tie tapes and an integral, fold back, blue nankeen rectangular collar. The fold back, blue nankeen rectangular collar hangs over the top reverse of the shirt and has three, roughly 1/4" wide, parallel, white, cotton tape stripes machine stitched near the outer edge. The shirt has an internal, dual-ply, stitched "U" shaped reinforcement yolk to the front center which encompasses the V-neck slash. The dual-ply yoke also permits for an internal, horizontal, patch, "knife", pocket to the interior left breast. The right breast has a machine woven, national eagle with out-stretched wings, clutching a wreathed, canted swastika in it’s talons, in cornflower blue rayon threads, mounted on a cut-out, ribbed white rayon base. The eagle is machine stitched to the shirt. The straight cut, non-adjustable, sleeve cuffs each have a trapezoidal, blue nankeen, ornamentation panel machine stitched in place. The blue nankeen ornamentation panels each have an upward pointed tip to the outer edge of the sleeves with dual, roughly 1/4" wide, white cotton, tape stripes running parallel to the upper edge and an additional white cotton tape stripe to the bottom edge. The cuffs also had a small, vertical, slash to the inside sleeve seams with a corresponding closure button to each. The upper left sleeve has separate, Machine Engine career badge positioned above an 1938-1945 pattern, Obergefreiter’s rank chevron. The Machine Engine career badge consists of a roughly, 2 1/8" diameter, brushed, white cotton/rayon blend material base with a machine embroidered, multi-cogged, wheel with six, internal spokes in cornflower blue rayon threads. The outer edge of the circular base has a narrow white rayon reinforcement strip machine stitched in place. The badge is neatly machine stitched to the sleeve. The 1938-1945 pattern, Obergefreiter’s rank chevron consists of dual, cornflower blue cotton, "V" shaped chevrons, machine stitched to an inverted triangular, white cotton base. The rank insignia is neatly handstitched to the sleeve. Of Note: Rank designations were tied to the career the individual was assigned to and in this case the proper rank designation is Machinenobergefreiter. The shirt has a long tail skirt with small, vertical, "V" slashes to each outside seam and small, horizontally rectangular, dual-ply, reinforcement panels with dual stitched eyelets to each, designed to secure the underpants to the shirt. The interior, reverse tail skirt has a small white rayon label handstitched in place with the red, machine woven, owner’s name, "Mees". The interior, obverse tail skirt has a faint, black ,inkstamp within a "boxy" "T" shaped border that appears to be, "B.A.W. 17. 5. 39" indicating, Bekleidungs Amt Wilhelmshaven, (Clothing Depot Wilhelmshaven May 17^TH 1939). The shirt is in overall very good condition with a few small picks and pulls, light age and usage toning and a couple of small brownish stains. The cuff buttons are the molded white glass type and appear to have their original stitching. The jumper shirts were a snug fitting item and this example is roughly size 40" chest. Of Note: The shirt appears to have been washed with a soap containing phosphates resulting in a splotchy glow under UV light. Shirt is 100% original, its just been cleaned at somepoint.

GRADE ****                             PRICE $536.00