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G004369 KAISERLISCHE MARINE KAPITÄNLEUTNANT'S FROCK COAT. (Frock Mantel)

BACKGROUND: German Naval uniforms and headgear were based on traditional designs that date back to the creation of the Prussian Navy in 1848, and although uniforms and headgear did evolve during the interim years many items used during the Third Reich would still have been quite recognizable to the Imperial sailor. Officers and certain senior NCO ranks were responsible for purchasing their own uniforms and headgear and as a result were allotted a clothing allowance through the OKK, Offizier Kleiderkasse der Kriegsmarine, (Officer’s Clothing Account of the Navy). Generally speaking officers bought nice quality, private purchase, uniform items but they could also choose to buy their uniforms directly from the military clothing depots. The Frock coat was carried over from the Imperial navy to the Weimar era Reichsmarine and on into the Third Reich.

PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION: The very nice quality, private purchase, deep navy blue doeskin wool construction, full length, frock coat has fold back, upswept, peak lapels and a small blue velvet, lay down collar (Indicating" Intendanten" or "director". The frock coat features dual, vertical, parallel, rows of five, front closure silver buttons with corresponding button holes on both the left and right front panels, enabling the coat to be button either left or right handedly. The top button on each side are ornamental and not functional and the fold back peak lapels also have a single ornamental button eyelet to each. The left breast has four vertical thread loops for wear of a medal or ribbon bar. The sleeves have straight cut, non-adjustable cuffs with no insignia. The reverse of the frock coat has a central, opened, vertical tail skirt vent running from the waistline to the bottom edge of the tail skirt. Each side of the tail skirt vent have small, ornamental, vertical scalloped panels with three, vertically aligned, ornamental buttons to each. The frock coat has sewn on shoulder boards in interwoven, matte silver/aluminum Russian braid, with two gilt washed, stamped alloy rank pips to each, as well as Imperial Crown on two crossed anchors that represent ship, engine and harbor construction officials. The right shoulder board has lost it's stitching to the shoulder seam, allowing it to swing free. The shoulder board retaining buttons are intact. The frock coat also has additional, ribbed, gilt wire and navy blue wool, bridal loops positioned beneath each shoulder board, designed for securing the large dress epaulettes as required. The interior of the frock coat is fully lined in black rayon with white sleeves. The lining has a horizontal, slash pocket to the left breast with a white manufacture oil tag from "L.H. Berger, Collani & Co." along with a handwritten name. An integral, two piece, horizontal, rayon belt with four button eyelets on the left side and four corresponding, rayon covered, magnetic sheet metal buttons. A cloth "collar loop" is sewn to the collar, that can be read upside down, "F. Schwoppe (?) Kiel". The frock coat has long tears to the interior lining, as well as a small square hand repair. The navy blue velvet collar is in good condition, with some moth tracking present to the exterior bottom of the coat and holes to the bottom edges. The chest measures approximately 39". Of Note: This type of jacket was also known as the "Collani" or "Kulani, referring to the above manufacturer as they had been manufacturing these coats for the Imperial Navy since the 19^th century.

GRADE *** 1/2                             PRICE $1,825.00

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